Reverse Osmosis System Support

RO System Troubleshooting Guide

If you encounter any issues other than those listed below or if the issue is not solved by following this guide, please contact Olympia Water Systems for support.

Unsure Which Olympia RO System is Installed

The Olympia label on the RO membrane housing (the larger horizontal canister on the top of the system bracket) will indicate which system you have installed. This label will have "Reverse Osmosis System with 50GPD Membrane" or "Reverse Osmosis System with 80GPD Membrane" and will have "OROS-50" or "OROS-80" indicated at the top right corner. You can also check the Flow Restrictor (the white plastic cylinder that connects the black drain tubing to the system), it will have a green sticker with either "300" or "400". "300" indicates the OROS-50 and "400" indicates OROS-80. Please note that all Olympia Systems use the same filters for Stages 1-3 and Stage 5 (post-carbon filter).

Tank Ball Valve Leaking

If there is a leak from where the tank ball valve attaches to the tank, there may not be enough Teflon tape applied to the tank stem before installing the tank ball valve. To resolve this issue, the tank will need to be emptied before the tank ball valve can be removed. To empty the tank, turn OFF the feed water angle valve and turn the system faucet ON to allow the water from the tank to drain out. The tank is empty when there is very little or no water from the faucet. Once the tank has been emptied, turn OFF the system faucet and remove the tank ball valve. Apply 5-7 wraps of Teflon tape to the tank stem before re-installing the tank ball valve. After the tank ball valve has been re-installed, turn ON the feed water angle valve and double check for leaks.

Stage 1-3 Filter Housing Leaking

If there is a leak from any of the Stage 1-3 filter housings on the system please check the following:
  • Ensure the filter housings have been tightened using the provided large wrench.
  • The black rubber o-ring inside the leaking housing(s) may not be seated correctly or defective. To check this, the feed water angle valve and the tank ball valve will need to be turned OFF. If the system is full of water, turn the system faucet ON to drain the water from the housings. Use the provided large wrench to unscrew the housing and check that the o-ring inside is seated securely in the groove. Re-attach the housing(s) by hand tightening and then using the provided large wrench to tighten. Turn ON the feed water angle valve and double check for leaks.

Tubing Connection Leaking

If there is a leak from any of the tubing connections on the system please check the following:
  • Ensure the tubing has been inserted into the quick connect fitting correctly. To check this, the feed water angle valve and the tank ball valve will need to be turned OFF. Turn on the system faucet to release any remaining pressure in the system. Once the pressure is released, turn the faucet off. Remove the tubing and re-insert into the quick connect fitting, making sure that the tubing goes into the fitting as far as possible. Turn feed water angle valve and the tank ball valve and check for leaks.
  • The end of the tubing may not be cut straight. To check this, the feed water angle valve and the tank ball valve will need to be turned OFF. Turn on the system faucet to release any remaining pressure in the system. Remove the tubing and cut off 1/4" from the end of the tubing with a pair of scissors (ensure the cut is as straight as possible). Insert the freshly cut end of the tubing into the quick connect fitting. Turn ON the feed water angle valve and tank ball valve and check for leaks.
  • If the leak is coming from where the quick connect fitting connects to the system, the quick connect fitting has likely been damaged and will need to be replaced. If your system is still under warranty, please contact us for a replacement part. If your 1 year system warranty is expired, the replacement quick connect fittings are available to purchase in our online store.

No Water from System Faucet

If there is not any water dispensing at the system faucet please check the following:
  • Check that the cold water supply and the feed water angle valve are in the ON position.
  • Check that the tank ball valve is in the ON position.
  • Ensure that BLUE tubing from system to faucet has not been crimped or bent so that the water cannot flow from the system to the faucet.
  • Please verify that all provided installation instructions have been followed correctly and that all the tubing connections are properly installed.
  • The tank may be empty if the system has just been installed or has just completed a system flush after filter installation. If this is the case, you may hear the system and tank start automatically filling. It can take approximately 3 hours for the tank to fill completely.
  • Incorrect tank pressure can cause no or very little water to dispense from the faucet. The included system tank is pre-pressurized (5-7psi) and does not require air to be added during installation. If air is added to the tank and the pressure is too high, the air bladder will fill the space in the tank designed for water.
  • Ensure the Automatic Shut-Off Valve is installed correctly. If the automatic shut-off valve has been installed incorrectly it can cause the system to run without filling the tank. Please click here to view the correct tubing connection layout for the automatic shut-off valve.

Slow Flow from System Faucet

If the system faucet has slow flow from the system please check the following:
  • If the tank has recently been emptied, please wait until the tank has had more time to fill. It can take approximately 3 hours for the tank to fill completely.
  • Ensure that the feed water angle valve is completely in the ON position.
  • Check to make sure none of the tubing lines are crimped and restricting water flow.
  • Incorrect storage tank pressure can cause no or very little water to dispense from the faucet. The included system tank is pre-pressurized to 5-7psi. If the water flow from the system faucet is slow, the tank air pressure may need to be re-charged. Please note that to check the tank air pressure the tank must be empty. Once tank is empty, turn off the tank ball valve and remove the blue cap covering the air valve on the front of the tank. Use an air pressure gauge to test the current air pressure in the tank. If the pressure is below 5psi, use an air compressor or bicycle pump to re-pressurize the tank to the correct psi.
  • The system requires 50-100psi of water supply pressure to function properly. If the water supply pressure drops below 50psi, the flow from the system faucet will be slow.

System Does Not Shut-Off or Shut-Off is Slow

If the system is slow to shut-off or does not shut-off, please check the following:
  • Clogged pre-filters will reduce the feed water pressure in the system. Check the Stage 1 Sediment filter to see if it is very dirty and has become discolored. If this has occurred in 3 months or less, your feed water supply has heavy sediments and you will need to replace the Stage 1 Sediment filter in your system frequently.
  • Ensure that the feed water angle valve is completely in the ON position.
  • The system requires 50-100psi of water supply pressure to function properly. If the water supply pressure drops below 50psi, the system shut-off will be slow or will not shut-off.
  • If you have the system feeding multiple outputs (i.e. icemaker, aquarium, additional faucets) the system will be running as long as necessary to make filtered water for the other outputs and the system tank.
  • Ensure the Automatic Shut-Off Valve is installed correctly. If the automatic shut-off valve has been installed incorrectly it can cause the system to run without filling the tank. Please click here to view the correct tubing connection layout for the automatic shut-off valve.
  • Check Valve or Automatic Shut Off Valve may be defective. To check this, there must be water in the tank and the feed water angle valve and the tank ball valve will need to be turned OFF. Turn on the system faucet to release any remaining pressure in the system. Remove the black drain line tubing from the drain saddle valve and place the end of the tubing in a bucket to catch any drainage. While the tubing is in the bucket, turn the tank ball valve ON. If water begins to drain into the bucket, the check valve is defective and needs to be replaced. If no water drains into the bucket, the check valve is fine and the issue is being caused by a defective Automatic Shut-Off Valve and it will need to be replaced.

Air Bubbles

Lots of air bubbles in a glass when filling from the system faucet is normal if the system has been recently installed or the filters and/or membrane have been replaced. The system will slowly purge the accumulated air with continued use. The time it takes to completely purge the air from the system varies with different water pressure, water properties and system usage. If you would like to purge the air more quickly after installing new filters and/or membrane, you can drain an additional 1-2 tanks after the normal flushing procedure before drinking water from the system.

Poor Taste

If the water from the RO system tastes like tap water or has a poor smell or taste, please check the following:
  • Ensure RO membrane has been installed. The RO membrane is the most important filter in the system as it removes the most impurities from the water.
  • Ensure that the correct flushing procedures have been completed before drinking the water from the system. As indicated in the owner’s manual, the flushing the system procedure should be completed on after the initial installation of the system and each time the filters and/or membrane are replaced.
  • The stage 5 post carbon filter needs to be replaced. The post carbon filter reduces chlorine, taste and odor.
  • The filters and/or membrane need to be replaced. Proper maintenance of the system is necessary to keep the system working properly. Be sure to replace the filters and membrane regularly according to the owner’s manual maintenance schedule.

Vibrating or Clicking Noise from System

Clicking Noise: Since the RO system uses water pressure to run, the system and the tubing will be under pressure after the system has filled the tank. Once you start dispensing water from the system faucet, the system will turn on to begin the process of refilling the tank. Because the system is under pressure, this can cause the tubing to jump and hit against the inside of the cabinet or the side of the system, which is what is causing the clicking noise. To prevent this clicking noise, you can shorten the length of the system tubing to reduce movement when the system is turned on.

Vibrating or Humming Noise: Air bubbles can accumulate in the system which causes a vibrating or humming sound from the system when it is running. To remove the trapped air bubbles please complete the following:
  • Turn off the tank ball valve.
  • Tilt the RO system at a least a 45 degree angle so that only the stage 1 filter housing is touching the floor. Tilting the system helps remove the accumulated air bubbles.
  • Keeping the system tilted, turn on the system faucet and let water run from the faucet for 1 minute and then turn off the system faucet.
  • Wait 20-30 seconds and repeat the previous step 3-4 times.